Adjusting a sewing pattern between two sizes (grading)

Not every body perfectly matches a single clothing size. Perhaps your bust measurement is a size 38, but your hips are a size 42. In this case, you don't have to choose just one size.

By adjusting the pattern between different sizes ("grading"), you can tailor the pattern to your individual measurements. The result is a better fit and less alteration work on the finished garment.

Step 1: Determine the Size Difference

Compare your body measurements with the pattern's size chart. Pay particular attention to:

• Bust measurement
• Waist measurement
• Hip measurement

Note down the sizes that correspond to your individual measurements. For example, your bust might be a size 38 and your hips a size 42.

Step 2: Find Key Body Lines

Look for markings on the pattern for the:

• Bust line
• Waist line
• Hip line

These are often indicated by a small circle with a cross.

Step 3: Mark Desired Sizes

Mark the appropriate size on each body line.

Example:

• Bust: Size 38
• Waist: Size 40
• Hips: Size 42

Draw the corresponding points on the pattern.

Step 4: Draw the New Pattern Line

Connect the marked points with a smooth line.

Helpful tools:

• Curved ruler
• French curve
• Flexible ruler

Ensure that the transitions are soft and harmonious. Especially in the waist and hip area, curved lines often emerge.

Tip: Compare Front and Back Pieces

So that the side seams match up perfectly later:

1. Adjust the front piece.
2. Place the front and back pieces right sides together.
3. Align notches and size lines.
4. Transfer the new side seam to the back piece.

This ensures both pattern pieces will match perfectly later.

Step 5: Adjust Other Pattern Pieces

Don't forget to check and adjust any corresponding pattern pieces as needed:

• Facings
• Pockets
• Trims
• Lining pieces

These must match the altered pattern pieces.

Step 6: Test the Fit

Before cutting your actual fabric, it's recommended to make a toile from calico or inexpensive cotton.

Check the:

• Fit at the bust, waist, and hips
• Ease of movement
• Line and silhouette

Make any final adjustments as needed before cutting your original fabric.

Note

Simple patterns are usually easier to grade between sizes than models with many pattern pieces or complex details. If you are new to grading, it is best to start with a simple pattern.